Chapter 4

Raquette Lake to Long Lake

It was a chilly start to day 2, and I did not want to get out of my sleeping bag. After some instant coffee and oatmeal, put on my damp clothes and did some jumping jacks and hit the road. I was hoping starting early I’d avoid the wind, but I didn’t start early enough evidently. Raquette Lake was a choppy slog with a head wind the whole way.

I made it to the Forked Lake Carry and loaded up. I decided that carrying my bag and canoe separately yesterday really ate into my time so I did everything at once. There apparently is a pay phone in the middle of this carry but I missed it on account of the canoe over my head.

Forked Lake was pretty and isolate. Most of the lakes I’ve been through so far have a fair amount of summer homes, but this was long stretches of unmolested forests of pine, hemlock, spruce, and cedar.

At the end of Forked Lake is the Forked Lake State Campground and a 1.5 mile portage. There were quite a few people here the first I’d seen all day. I talked to the boat steward who has been in the area for a few years. Apparently the large group ahead of me on the trail is a group of Native Americans from various tribes with a camera man doing something for National Geographic. I’m not sure if it’s a TV special or will be an article in the magazine. The man was nice and we chatted, he offered to drive my bags down on his lunch break. I told him I appreciate it but don’t want to get dependent on the kindness of strangers.

The portage was a slog. The weather had started to clear up around 11 and the blackflies were out. It’s not easy to swat the buggers while you’re carrying a canoe, and bug spray seems to only work for 10 minutes. I made it down to the lean to which is the end of the carry and took a long break. That really took it out of me and my right ankle and foot are starting to bother me.

Unfortunately that wasn’t the end! A short bit down the the river (with some nice speed thanks to the current!) I had to carry around Buttermilk Falls. It was short but uneven terrain. I would have stuck around but I wanted to keep time.

After another short paddle down the river, there was another 0.6 mile portage. Creature Count: I saw a pair of mergansers. The male was shockingly white with a beautiful green head. I almost lost my boat as I was unloading for the carry. Always tie your boat up kids. As I had just begun to dry off from the day before I didn’t want to get my clothes wet so I jumped in my birthday suit to swim after the boat. I slipped on the rocks but luckily didn’t hurt anything.

I made two trips again as the long portage was really wearing me down. By the time I was done I think I was at 13+ miles and it was after 3 o’clock. According to the guide book this was a 23 miles day so I was unsure about making the distance. I had intended to go north of the town on the upper half of Long Lake where there are many lean-tos, but I wasn’t sure I’d be able to make it to the town at a reasonable hour.

I fought against intermittent headwinds again along the length of Long Lake, but the sun had really come out. The southern half was very pretty with large rock faces and cliffs on the northwestern shore. Maybe it was the sun shining but it was my favorite stretch so far.

Word on the streets is that Katina and the large group both stayed at the Adirondack Hotel. So I decided there was no shame in it, besides this is my vacation. I got a room here last night, and took a shower. I don’t know how but in only 2 days my scalp was already permeated with sand.

After my shower I put on clothes that didn’t make me look entirely like a nut, and limped my way to the bar and restaurant. I was craving a burger and a beer. They also had pub pretzels with mustard and cheese. It’s one of my weaknesses. Unfortunately my eyes were bigger than my stomach, and I was feeling queezy from all the exercise so I couldn’t finish my meal. I hate wasting food like that but I didn’t want to get sick.

I met two ladies Elise and Trisha at the bar. A couple friends here for a get away weekend. They were lovely and fun to talk to. They wanted to do shots with me and Trisha later was looking for a carbomb buddy. If I was in any condition I would have indulged but I was on shaky ground as it was. I don’t know how good of a companion I was as I was in an utter fog and really just wanted to go to bed but they were gracious about my slow wits. Trisha’s life advice was they I just need to dance. I’ll remember that Trisha hopefully I will cut a rug at the wedding at the end of this adventure.

As you can maybe tell I am in no hurry to start today. After I publish this post there is a kayak rental/coffee shop that sounds neat I want to see if they’re open. And then I’ll get going. Original plan was to get to Stony Creek / Axton Landing. It’s 22 miles and the river helps the pace, there is only 1 portage. But I don’t want to beat myself up so if I don’t quite make it then c’est la vie.