Chapter 17

Plattsburgh to Lakewood Campground

What a long day!

Was it the burger, the shower, or girl at front desk? I don’t know but I felt like a million bucks last night. I after doing some research on the weather, it appeared that while the weather improved in a couple days the wind speed went up, and this is exactly what I didn’t want while crossing Champlain. I noticed that that early in the morning the wind speed was nearly zero, and the thunderstorms not due until almost noon. I decided I had to go.

My alarm was set for 4 but I woke up at 3. I decided my blisters were a little worse than I thought last night but no matter. I was loaded and dragging my canoe though dark city streets. It was a long 2 miles, despite being downhill. I learned that the bushings or some plastic around the wheels partially melted or twisted and cracked. No wonder I was fighting! I don’t know when this happened, but I believe the wheels need a cleaning and new grease.

Sometime around 5 dawn had come and I made it to the lake. The remediation work blocked the NFCT Kiosk which irritated me, part of the fun is finding those and signing in. I was tired of portaging and my hands were red but I took solace in knowing I had 30 or 40 miles of uninterrupted lake ahead of me.

As promised the water was calm and I used the GPS to make a line for Cumberland Head. I was nervous to start expecting the calm lake to suddenly swell or lightning to come crashing down. But it the crossing was uneventful and soon I rounded the head and found the ferries going to and fro. I went north of these and then cut east to each South Hero Island. Although I was far from done with the lake this crossing felt like an accomplishment. I not only got the first big water section but I had crossed into Vermont and was complete with New York!

The wind was at my back when kept me at a steady if slow pace. While I was on high alert on the crossing, now I began to get sleepy as the 4 hours of sleep were catching up to me. I would pause and close my eyes some and then paddle some more. Eventually I got to a boat landing to have some lunch. I nearly laid down and took a nap.

After chatting with Carl and Linda for a bit, I hopped into the canoe and paddled northeast. I had my book open rereading the paragraph a few times determine where the portage trail was, as all I could see was indistinct marshy shoreline of reeds. Somehow I managed to spot the tiny NFCT sign, and navigated the dead stumps and branches among the low water. This path was decidedly not wheel friendly, with several stretches of bog boards. In my haste and general lack of decorum from my tiredness, I confess I just dragged the canoe by the painter. Sacrilegious I know.

After this I carried on north and soon was in the Gut, the area between North and South Hero Islands. This area is large enough to be a its own lake. While it had sprinkled some none of the forecasted rain had come down. I asked some bass fisherman if thunderstorms were still in the forecast and they said yes.

I made it out of the Gut into the eastern side of the lake. The west had been breezy and a little choppy but this side was nearly as calm as it had been in the morning. I kept on towards Bay City where I had considered stopping, and soon the sun was out.

It was too early for me to justify stopping although I was tired and lazily paddling. I stopped at another boat launch eventually for some trail mix and to stretch my legs, this gave me renewed energy and I began a much steadier pace. It became clear to me that I would be able to make it to the tip of North Hero which I did in short work. But as I approached I noticed the lake was dead calm in the mile stretch between North Hero and the mainland. I decided I needed to take the opportunity to cross in case the conditions changed at all tomorrow.

Considered going further for some extra credit, but there is a campground across from North Hero and the day began to catch up with me. After trying to communicate with an older French Canadian man who didn’t speak English, I eventually found my way to the office to confirm I could get a spot. The lady let me stay for free!

Cold shower (3 days in a row with showers!) And setting up the shelter I’m ready to crash. Til next time !