Chapter 18

Lakewood Campground to Highgate Dam

Today I decided to sleep in until 5:30, and had a leisurely breakfast with some tea inside the shelter. I’m realizing I underestimate how long it takes me to pack up and such, as it wasn’t until after 7 that I was in the water.

I’m glad I crossed last evening as the wind was up and there were 1 to 2 foot swells. When I got up I checked the lake and it seemed windy but only choppy, but by the time I put in things were rolling. This was especially tricky at first as I needed to go west to round the point before continuing north along the shore; this meant the waves were coming at me broadside. I kept a wary eye over my left shoulder to roll with the bigger waves. In a sea kayak I wouldn’t have been worried, in my low and laden canoe it exacted my attention.

As I rounded the bend this became less perilous and I could eat one of my protein bars and drink water without worry. I took notice of the many houses along the shore. It seems common practice here to encase the shore in cement with steps down to the water. It’s a shame because the natural stone (shale maybe, I’m a poor geologist) is pretty. There were some drooping red flowers whose tips were yellow growing among the bare stone.

After an hour or so I made it under a train trestle which I feared would clean my clock with the swells, but proved easily passable. Right after that was the Missiquoi Bay Bridge, the breakwater or old bridge foundation below it cut off the swells and it was nearly calm, and the sun began to come out.

Powered on north with the wind picking up slightly. I stopped for a snack and a stealth bio-break. Some of these sections have many houses or properties along them and it makes going to the bathroom a challenge which is easy in the woods. If you think people go whacky when a dog pees on their manicured lawn wait til you see what they do when they catch a grown man doing it.

With relative ease I found the entrance to the Missiquoi the grassy entrance a giveaway. This river was much wider than I had anticipated, and any fears I had of low water like the Saranac faded away. Fishing boats were going up and down the green murky waters. This area is a wetland preserve. Many birds could be seen and heard busying about their way. A two or larger carp startled me as I dipped my paddle in the water. Muskrats we’re swimming and diving at my approach.

The current was negligible to start but the wind was coming down the river slowing me a bit more. The sun had come out fully now and was hot. I had to continually put sunscreen on.

At about 2 I made it to Swanton Dam. The current had grown stronger the last couple miles and right under the dam was tricky with swirling currents. I had hoped to stay at Swanton Motel to give myself a break from the long couple days and wait out the thunderstorms that my dad had messaged me to warn about. I was skeptical of the weather forecasts at this point, but the next campsite was 6.5 miles away, upstream mind you.

As it turns out there were no rooms available which was a major bummer. Scramble time! I needed to run to the town (which was right there) anyway to get another gallon of water. I stopped at the pizza house for a chicken sandwich I had gotten on the drive out, and while she made the sandwich I ran to the gas station for a couple gallons and a spare lighter (you never know). I signed into the NFCT Kiosk, and gave myself hiccups from eating too fast. On we go!

The current was stronger and going slower than I wanted. Rain came though mostly not too hard. I passed by some train cars obscured by trees, and day-dreamed about sleeping in a car. Stopped under a couple over passes to get out of the rain and rest. One of which a mink came up spooked me. He scrambled up the concrete bridge footer and stared at me making a noise, his pink tongue visible. He skittered off dragging something I couldn’t tell what.

The rains stopped for a bit as I struggled down long straight aways. But as I neared the dam it began to pour. The currents here were very strong, and despite the portage being far from the dam the current was still felt. About the time I was getting out of the canoe the thunder began. I rushed to get my bag of our the boat and dropped my camelpak in the water I had to go mid thigh before it floated away (phone inside, in a dry pack don’t worry). I hastily set up shelter and got in. It wasn’t my finest set up and there are some leaks but the storm has stopped as of writing this.

Tomorrow is more rain 3 or 4 portages and upstream, I’m sure this rain has strengthened the current. I’ve completed my goal of crossing Champlain, yay! My next ambition is to reach Richford.

One last thing before I go, these events happened May 16th whatever the publication date. I’m two days behind right now, it has caused confusion for some. Hopefully I’m dry in the morning!