Chapter 20

Jackman, ME to Northeast Carry, Moosehead Lake

Boy! Another canoeing year in the books. I had more ambitions this summer but with weddings and bachelor parties, amongst other things there’s only so much time. In any case, I did this last trip of the season before things get colder than I want to cope with. This post is going to be a little different than previous ones. This trip I went with my friend Kyle, who has written his own blogs about his international travels. I thought it would be fun to have him write this time around and get his perspective on the trip. Additionally this was written after the fact, and will be one post about a three day trip rather than my typical format. Take it away Kyle!

Day 1

It would have been an ambitious plan, even for someone with Josh’s experience. After packing as much as we could the night before, we targeted a 4:30 AM wakeup with the hopes of being on the road for the two and a half hour ride north to Jackman, ME by 5:00 AM. We wanted to cover roughly 20 miles that first day, putting in on the Moose River, paddling through Long Pond, and ending where the Moose River fed into Little Brassua Lake. Around 17 miles would be on the water with the remaining distance covered via portage. The twist was that Josh had agreed to allow me to tag along for this section and I lacked any prior through paddling experience.

When Josh began his journey to complete the Northern Forest Canoe Trail last year and I started to hear about his experiences, I was intrigued. Where did you sleep? What did you need to pack? How did you feed yourself? How did you navigate the unexpected challenges any trip of this nature assuredly would throw your way? I had suggested that if he was willing, I would enjoy the opportunity to tag along for a section or two to find out for myself, and despite us having to postpone a year due to inclement weather and some untimely food poisoning, we piled into the car at 5:00 AM sharp the following morning.

The nerves of not knowing what to expect and not wanting to be a burden were surely to blame for the 90 minutes of sleep I was able to manage the night before we set off. Any fatigue, however, faded as the sun rose to meet us while we drove along the Kennebec River and Wyman Lake, passing through mile after mile of what surely could only be Maine’s distinct natural beauty. Despite keeping our eye out for moose and Josh saying, “I haven’t been to Jackman often, but every time I have, I’ve seen a moose,” we did not have any luck before we pulled into the campsite where we were leaving the car and getting the canoe. After a few final checks of our gear and loading the canoe, we cast off down the river in the early morning chill.

The river was calm, but the occasional low class rapids provided Josh an opportunity to teach me what we should be vigilant for and practice a few basic maneuvers with the canoe. The sun in our face, slowly climbing higher into the sky, nor the constant paddling motion were able to ward off the chill as we both stayed bundled in multiple layers and winter hats. A few hours later, the Moose River deposited us into Long Pond and we quickly discovered that we would have some wind to contend with. Two bald eagles circled above us as we made our way across the first portion of open water, and despite the wind somewhat to our back, the swells made this segment tricky. As the end of Long Pond came into sight hours later, Josh and I both agreed we thought the wind might be dying down, and as if it heard us, it rose to our challenge one final time before we safely exited back onto the Moose River.

This portion of the river presented the first set of rapids that we were unable to pass from within the canoe. After some furious paddling to avoid going over backwards, we were situated to get out and walk the canoe. My first step out of the canoe and into the river bed managed to be a slippery one, and I took a quick, unintended seat, soaking my pants up to my waist. Laughing it off, we climbed back into the canoe and meandered along the river before we fell silent for several minutes. “Kyle, look over there,” Josh whispered as he spotted two moose on the northern riverbank. I stopped paddling to capture a few photos as Josh steered us closer, as silent as he could manage. Eventually the moose noticed our presence and turned their backs, retreating into the woods which the river cut through.

We came ashore around 3:00 in the afternoon, knowing that the paddling portion of the day was behind us. Stiff from my first full day seated in the canoe, the unloading of our gear and carrying the canoe up from the river to the Demo Road was a welcome change of physical activity, although my lack of sleep from the prior night was starting to catch up with me. With the portage wheels situated under the canoe and our gear loaded over the center as much as we could manage, we turned to face a steep uphill portion as the Demo Road continued to climb away from the riverbed. A few friendly locals passing by in their trucks stopped to check-in and chat with us while Josh and I tried to catch our breaths, one couple even offering their last beer, which we politely declined.

Finally reaching the crest of the initial hill, we turned east, facing a seemingly unending dirt road. Our breaks from wheeling the canoe and gear quickly became more frequent, and the sun, which had served as our welcoming companion that very morning, seemed to taunt us with its rapid descent. One final passerby had offered a ride, but out of principle to complete the entire trail, Josh had declined and despite the screaming fatigue in my forearms, I understood.

With the possibility of assistance driving off ahead of us, Josh and I traded fewer and fewer words, but more than ever was communicated. “We can’t keep stopping if we are to get camp setup before dark,” was never uttered, but I heard it loud and clear. Our conversation eventually diminished to, “Ok, ready?”

“Switch sides.”

“Stop.” Repeated time after time, foot by foot.

Perhaps the cruelest part of the entire portage was the fact that the guidebook mentioned we were supposed to cross two streams before turning off the road and back towards the river, signaling the final segment would be ahead. We had passed over only one before completing another grueling, slight incline that seemed to stretch on for miles before we reached the turnoff point without ever crossing a second stream. The celebration was brief as we finally reached the portion of the portage that would take us back through the woods towards the riverbank. By this point, with the last of daylight hanging on as meekly as we were to the canoe, we donned our headlamps and completed our first day as the sound of the river signaled the finish line. The night was cool and clear, and perhaps as a reward for our efforts, we were treated to a wonderful display of stars overhead despite the intense vegetation of the forest overhead.

Day 2

The following morning was cold and a thick mist lurked over the water. We had breakfast before deconstructing camp and loading the canoe for a second day. This day we hoped to paddle through Little Brassua and Brassua Lakes, a quick final stint on the Moose River, and come to rest at Hardscrabble Point on Mt. Kineo State Park. It would be 15-17 miles. As Josh and I went to lift the canoe from the riverbank for the first time that day, I let out a sharp yell, “Stop!” Josh turned in alarm before realizing it was a joke. The joke turned out to be on me though as our first challenge of the day was walking the canoe over rapids we could not paddle. Just as I had the first day, I took a seat in the river after slipping on another rock. We climbed back into the canoe after being otherwise successful, and we were on our way.

Little Brassua Lake and Brassua Lake were beautiful, and seemingly passed quickly with the wind being slightly more calm than the prior day. Similar to Long Pond, most of the shore was undeveloped, leaving little signs of civilization until we reached the dam on the east side of Brassua Lake. A short portage and a quick stop for lunch had us back in the Moose River with a lot of daylight ahead of us. This section of the river was populated and we passed a few boaters or friendly faces enjoying the sunlight from their riverside abodes.

As the river approached Moosehead Lake, the suddenness, with which Mt. Kineo appeared, was striking. The sheer southern face in juxtaposition to the lake made for one of the geographical highlights of the trip. The intimidating peak from water level was also a forewarning that this portion of our journey could be difficult. One of the people who had stopped the day prior to chat with us during the portage had warned conditions on Moosehead could turn treacherous. Luckily the wind this day was fairly calm, and we were able to reach Hardscrabble Point with plenty of time to spare. After stretching our legs briefly, we climbed back into the canoe and continued on for another 3 miles before calling it for the day.

After setting up camp, having a meal, and even a surprise snack from a nearby apple tree, we took in the views of the setting sun. The forecast called for a front to blow in overnight, bringing rain for much of the following day. We awoke in the middle of the night to a surreal level of silence. Then in the dark, the wind began to pick up, whipping across the lake and causing the rain fly on the tent to dance nervously. The rain soon followed, being heard on the lake before finally reaching our tent. 

Day 3

The following morning the rain continued, and we packed the wet tent and our gear into the canoe for our final stretch. We estimated only eight miles to go for the day, targeting to reach our destination by 1:00 PM. The weather would ensure that we had the second largest lake in New England to ourselves, and we paddled our way up towards North East Carry. Whether it was the short distance or the acclimation to the way time passes on a trip like this, the eight miles seemed to pass quickly and we arrived at our destination on time. The weather meant we were unable to use the float plane we had contracted to fly back to Jackman, but the pilot was able to give us a ride to Greenville before providing us with a separate vehicle to get back to Jackman.

After transferring our gear back into Josh’s car, we headed home. This time Wyman Lake and the Kennebec River wound along to the right hand side of the road, and we were accompanied by rain rather than the brilliant morning skies from just a few days prior, but that couldn’t dampen our experience of the weekend.      

Wrap Up

I think Kyle, understated how tough the portage was and how desperate we were as the sun was setting. He did well for the miles we did and the length of the portage; I gave him fair warning but nothing prepares you for the real thing except just doing it.

This was likely the last trip for 2022. Despite a busier than expected summer, I completed all of New York, and brought the total mileage up to 340 mi. I would have liked to cross the 50% mark and finish New Hampshire, but I’d rather take my time and enjoy the ride! Until next year!